Test Post from ePond Shop
Test Post from ePond Shop
Test Post from ePond Shop
Offering 2 (two) x Hermaphroditic Females of Kryptolebias marmoratus «Dangriga» (Belize). The auction starts at 0.99 GBP! We ship worldwide.
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The fish originates from Cap Estérias, Estuaire Province, Akanda National Park, Gabon. The original specimens have been collected by T. Blum, P. Sewer, H. Weder and R. Gluggenbuehl in July and August 1997.
Breeding is relatively easy, employing a spawning method known amongst hobbyists as «egg scattering». There exist several different methods of spawning it, and much is down to personal preference. A pair can easily be spawned in a tank as small as 12″ x 8″ x 8″. It’s often recommended that it should be spawned in trios, but brood sizes tend to be lower when it’s bred this way. This is perhaps due to the fish that is not involved in the spawning activity eating some of the eggs.
Many breeders do not use filtration in killi breeding setups but the addition of a small, air-driven sponge filter is good to prevent stagnation. The water should be soft and acidic with a pH of 6.0 – 6.5 (although there are instances of this species being bred in water of up to pH 8.0), and a temperature of 21°C – 24°C. Peat filtration is very useful and also keeping the tank unlit.
The fish should be conditioned on a varied diet of live and frozen foods. Many top breeders recommend keeping the sexes apart in separate conditioning tanks and selecting the best-looking male and plumpest female before placing them in the spawning tank. This method allows females to recover between spawnings. Eggs will be deposited either in the substrate or in clumps of vegetation in nature, and the spawning medium can therefore either be a layer of peat moss on the base of the tank, clumps of fine-leaved plants such as java moss or spawning mops. If you’re not using peat moss, a bare-bottomed setup is best, for both ease of maintenance and egg collection.
If water conditions are good and the fish are well conditioned, spawning should present no problems. The eggs can be left in the aquarium to hatch with the parents but some may be eaten. If you want to raise a good-sized group, the eggs should be removed. 10 – 20 eggs are deposited daily for around 2 weeks and these should be removed gently as they are noticed. Each pair should only be allowed to spawn for a week or so before being returned to the conditioning tanks, as the spawning process is hard on the fish (particularly the female) and they can become fatigued and weak if left for too long.
Once removed the eggs can be incubated either in water or by placing them on a damp layer of peat moss in a small container (margarine tubs are ideal). In our experience, fewer eggs tend to fungus using the latter method. Whichever you choose, always remove any fungussed eggs as you notice them to prevent the infection from spreading to others.
If incubating in water the eggs can be transferred to a small aquarium containing water from the spawning tank to a depth of 1-2 inches to which has been added 1-3 drops of methylene blue, depending on volume. This container should be kept under darkness (the eggs are very sensitive to light) and checked daily for fungussed eggs, which can be easily removed using a pipette. They will hatch in 10 – 20 days depending on temperature.
If incubating on peat moss place the container in a warm, dark place and simply leave it for 18 days, after which the eggs will be ready to hatch. If you are spawning several species or multiple broods it is a good idea to label each container with the date, hatching date, species and number of eggs to prevent any disasters. Hatching can usually be induced by simply placing the eggs in the raising aquarium after 18 days, as the wetting of the eggs generally stimulates hatching. If this fails, blowing gently into the water through a straw or piece of airline can trigger hatching.
The fry are tiny and initial food should be infusoria. If using the peat moss incubation method, the raising tank can be ‘seeded’ a few days prior to hatching by adding a couple of drops of liquifry or green water. Otherwise, add small amounts as required. After 2 days they can be fed brine shrimp nauplii or microworm with the introduction of larger and frozen varieties after 2 weeks or so. The water must initially be kept very shallow but the level can be raised as the fry grow.
Extreme care must be taken regarding water quality in the raising tank as the fry are very susceptible to velvet disease. They should be fed twice a day with small water changes every 2 – 3 days for the best growth.
Offering a pair (male and female) of Aphyosemion australe «Cap Estérias BSWG 97-24» (Estuaire Province, Gabon). The auction starts at 0.99 GBP! We ship worldwide.
The Ceylon Killifish (Aplocheilus dayi) is a species of killifish endemic to Sri Lanka. Aplocheilus dayi is one of the easiest killifish to keep and breed. They will eat flake food and are content to occupy the surface of a community tank. You can start your colony having just one breeding pair. The adult fish grow up to 8 – 9 cm if kept in a spacious aquarium and fed well on varied foods preferably live ones. Both sexes have a black dot at the rear end of the base of the dorsal fin.
A group of 10 fishes can be successfully kept in a 100-liter aquarium having a large sponge filter. No other décor is really required, except for the requisite tight-fitting lid. The spawning medium is a 5 – 6 cm long mop of green yarn with a slightly coarse texture, clipped to the top of the tank for easy removal or to a floating cork. For the best result, it is recommended to feed the breeding fish with live Artemia, Glassworm and Daphnia, although they will take frozen and dry foods. They eat with a vigorous snatching motion that is typical for surface-dwelling killifish. The temperature should be 24°C – 26°C with approximately 50% water changes every two weeks or whenever the waste built up.
After a few days of getting acquainted the eggs will be laid daily so that you have to check the mop and remove the eggs to avoid their predation. While spawning the male drives the female into the mop with a sideways pushing motion, and then the pair shakes as the eggs are released and fertilized. The eggs are 1 to 1.7 mm in size and hard to the touch. Pick the eggs and put them in clear plastic cups, so that fungus or development of eyes would be easily visible. To discourage the growth of fungus use a very strong solution of methylene blue, about two drops per cup.
Collect the eggs in batches of 7 to 10 days, letting them all soak in the chemical bath for a few more days before pouring off the blue water. Then put the eggs and fresh water in a shallow plastic container. Depending on the temperature, the eggs would start to eye up after about 10 days and hatch in 14 days. The fry are large enough to scoop up with a tablespoon or catch with a medicine dropper. Force hatch any eggs that had eyes, but had still not hatched after a couple of weeks by putting them in a jar with a little water and breathing into it before shutting the lid tight for a few hours.
Raise the fry in a 5-liter plastic container with an airline (gently aerated small sponge filter) and some java moss to provide cover and microbes for snacking. A killifish fry box works well with a little peat/coir and dried oak leaves in the bottom to condition the water and give the fry hiding places, and a ramshorn or other snail to clean up uneaten food and to provide food for infusoria.
The fry can be fed microworms and freshly hatched baby brine shrimp (BBS). In a few weeks transfer the fry to a 30-liter growing tank with a good sponge filtration, java moss and java fern, and a dimmed light above. The fry grow quickly on twice daily feedings of fresh BBS. The males began to develop their distinctive bright yellow-gold colour around 30 – 40 mm.
Use sand at the bottom with little addition of coir or peat and oak leaf litter. In about 5 – 6 months they can be transferred to a large breeding tank.
Offering a pair (male and female) of Aplocheilus dayi «Sinharaja» (Sabaragamuwa Province, Sri Lanka). The auction starts at 0.99 GBP! We ship worldwide.
Offering a pair (male and female) of Violet Samurai miniature guppy. These miniature type guppies have been created by crossing Poecilia reticulata and Poecilia wingei. We carefully examine each of our mini guppy strains for specific traits that help us produce the best-looking fish possible. The price is 15 GBP per pair. We ship worldwide.
Offering a pair (male and female) of Red Line Sunshine miniature guppy. These miniature type guppies have been created by crossing Poecilia reticulata and Poecilia wingei. We carefully examine each of our mini guppy strains for specific traits that help us produce the best-looking fish possible. The price is 15 GBP per pair. We ship worldwide.